Very near the entrance to the ancient harbor is the church of the Annunciation, the orthodox cathedral, in the gothic style, with wall-paintings by Fotis Kontoglou. In the whole of this area in front of Mandraki, as elsewhere, the Italians put up various buildings with large spaces between them. Among them is the Governor's Residence, a building with gothic arches all round, which stands a little to the north of the Church of the Annunciation. Today it houses the headquarters of the Prefecture. The other buildings include the Town Hall, the National Theater (opposite the Governor's Residence), and the law courts, south of the church of the Annunciation.
Next to the Governor's Residence is the Mosque of Murat Reis with the old the ottoman notables' cemetery. If you follow from here the main road which goes to the west coast, you pass the luxurious Hotel of the Roses which is also a casino.
On the northern outskirts of the city is the famous Aquarium (Hydro Biological Station of Rhodes ). The sandy beach to the west of the Yacht Club is one of the most popular on Rhodes . If you follow the Mandraki pier in the direction of the old town, you come to Nea Agora (New Market), a large, polygonal building with a series of arches on its facade and a large open space in the middle. Near hear in a beautiful garden and below the imposing walls and Palace of the Grand Master, are the installations for sound and vision performances.
Entering the medieval town through the Gate of Freedom, near the New Market (Mandraki), we come upon the Simis Sq. Here we will find exposed sparse remains of the Temple of Aphrodite. On the left is the Municipal Art Gallery containing works by famous Greek artists. Very close to the Gallery's building there is the Museum of Decorative Arts and the Inn of Auvergne. It was used as a hostel by the Knights where those who spoke one of their eight ‘tongues’, in this case that of Auvergne, were accommodated. A little further on the right is the beginning of the famous Street of the Knights, where we feel that it remained unattached by the passage of the 500 years since it was first built (14th century). Here the Gothic order predominates. The Inns of the various ‘Tongues’ stand in a row, with impressive arched doorways and important emblems carved above them.
Next, as we climb the hill to the direction of the Palace of the Grand master or the Castello as it is now called, we arrive to the Collachium, the quarter of the Knights,. On our right we will find the Inn of Italy and then the Inn of France, the largest one. Still on the right, the next building is the Inn of Province, while on the left is the Inn of Spain. In front of the Castello is the Loggia of St. John.
The Palace of the Grand Master, the most imposing building of the medieval town of Rhodes, is at the end of the Street of the Knights. It was built during the 14th century, but was damaged and almost completely demolished in 1856 by an explosion of gunpowder that was stored in its basement by the Turks. It was restored in 1939, during the Italian occupation. During the restoration, any effort was made to follow the original design. The Palace was intended by the fascist regime as a residence for the Italian King Vittorio Emmanuele II or for Mussolini.
Following the Orfeos St. from the Castello towards the south, we arrive at the clock - tower and the Mosque of Suleyman, before entering the Socrates St., the street that attracts most the visitors with its cafés, restaurants and stores.
Following down the Socrates St. we arrive at Ippokratous Square, a main attraction in Rhodes. Facing is the Court of Commerce, a fine, early 15th century building. Walking the Aristotle’s St., we come to a much bigger square the Square of the Jewish Martyrs. Our walk continues towards east, to the recently, partially restored church of St. Pateleimon (15th century) and the ruined church of Our Lady of Victory, which was built in the memory of the victorious outcome of the Turkish siege in 1480. On the left we will find the St. Catherine’s Gate. We are now at the front of the commercial harbor, where ferries and large cruise ships anchor.
We can return to Ippokratous Square, following the walls walking along the Ermou St., as we come upon the Museum Square. On the front stands the Inn of England and the Archaeological Museum that is housed in the restored building of the Hospital of the Knights (15th century) .
Further down the main east coast road you will find Faliraki , probably the liveliest resort on the island with its many bars and restaurants.
Continuing south, the island becomes more rural with stunning mountain and sea views from the main road. There are many excellent beaches along the way including Ladiko, Kolimbia, Tsambika and Archangelos , whilst inland you will find wooded glades running with cool spring water including Valley of the Butterflies and Seven Springs.
After passing the small fishing village of Haraki , the 7km long Kalathos Beach comes into view, whilst to the right the whitewashed houses of Kalathos Village on the lower slopes of the hills can be seen. Above the village and amongst these hills, Aegean Homes are building Kalathos Heights , an exclusive community of villas with private pools, each with stunning views of the surrounding hills, the beach and the crystal waters of the Aegean.
A further 4kms down the coast road, the famous village of Lindos nestles below the Acropolis upon which lies the partially restored 4th Century BC temple of Lindian Athena . The small resorts of Pefkos, Lardos and Gennadi lay south of Lindos. Thereafter the rest of the east coast is largely untouched by any significant tourism.
Similarly the west coast has little development mainly due to its more rock coastline and stronger currents, although areas of note are the remains of the ancient town of Kamerios , which was at its height in the 6th Century BC and the Crusaders Castle at Monolithos with its stunning sea views.
Lindos, distant 47km from the city of Rhodes, is one of the the island's major tourist attractions. The village has perfectly preserved its medieval character, with pebble-covered streets and whitewashed houses built on a slope just over the sea.
A series of steps leads to the ancient Acropolis with its Doric Temple of Athena. Through the main gate we discern the ruins of the Knight's Lodge and the Byzantine church of St. John. Outside the Doric Stoa the prow of a Lindian Hellenistic trireme has been carved in a rock (4.5 m x 5 m). We cross the Doric Stoa (5th century BC) with its 42 columns (20 have been restored) and climb the majestic staircase to higher terrace with Propylaean ruins (5th century BC). From this point we reach the Sanctuary of Lindian Athena, with its elegant bi-prostyle temple on the edge of the cliff (4th century). Ruins of an ancient theater have been found on the slope of the Acropolis. The ancient Acropolis was then built into a castle.
It is said that St. Paul the Apostle landed here when he came to the island of Rhodes; accordingly, the tiny harbor on the other side of village has been named Agios Pavlos.
In the village you can visit the Byzantine church covered with eighteenth century frescoes. In the recent years, some 15th century houses have been declared traditional buildings to be preserved and can be visited. Today, this peaceful traditional village has been chosen by many VIPs as the place to build a vacation house.
Surely the most important place of the east side of the island is the village of Lindos, but there are also many other beauties on this part of the island:
Koskinou distant only 10 km. from the city is an inland village with charming traditional houses. The nearby Kalithea (10.5 km.) is built around a colorful pine - covered bay with old spas.
Next on the road is Faliraki (14 km.), a cosmopolitan resort with an exquisite, long, sandy beach. Following the coast we get to Ladiko and his emerald sea waters. A magnificent place to visit with a small beach and high rocks. Used to be a property of the Oscar winning actor Anthony Quinn.
The next beach is the fabulous crystal-clear beach of Afandou (21 km.), an old Rhodian village with an interesting church and a Golf Course. Following the coast the next bay is that of Kolymbia. Before getting here if we turn to the right a road leads us to the enchanting Seven Springs (Epta Piges), a cool oasis with pine and plane - trees and crystal - clear waters.
Tsambika is a beautiful sandy coast but also a mountain, with a Virgin Mary monastery on its top. Arhangelos (29 km.) is a typical Rhodian Horio (village) noteworthy for its beautiful traditional houses with striking colors, ceramics and carpet workshops.
The next bay is that of Haraki, a charming fishing village, lies on the beginning of the marvelous coast that leads to Kalathos and then to Vliha Bay and includes the medieval castle of Faraklos.
To the south of Lindos we meet Pefkos a small resort with clean beaches and the inland village of Lardos. As we proceed to the southern tip of the island, we pass the coastal settlement of Plimiri, the village of Gennadi and we enter to the less developed territory with perfect deserted beaches and traditional villages, until the road abandons the coastline and turns left towards Katavia (80 km.), a major village of southern Rhodes.
But the journey is not over yet. It's worthwhile to follow the unpaved earth road leading to Prassonissi peninsula, full of sand dunes and accessible only in the summer, as the sea transforms it into a true island during the winter
Populous resorts, important archaeological sites, picturesque villages await us on this side of the island as well. Following the road to west we cross the great coast of Ixia where the island's Miami-beach style hotels are clustered and reach Trianda (8 km.) or Ialyssos, a townlet surrounded by orchard. One should visit here the church of the Dormition of Theotokos (Virgin Mary, Mother of God) with its famous woodcarved temple, and then follow the winding picturesque road crossing the pine - wood up to the Acropolis of Ialyssos (6 km.) - the important Doric city built on the flat top of Mt. Filerimos, strategically overlooking the island. Places of archaeological interest include the temple of Poias Athena (3rd century BC), the Baptimal Font of an early Christian church, the brilliantly restored church of Panagia Filerimos, the monastery, the ruins of a medieval castle, the Doric fountain and the ancient necropolis.
Further to the west on the coast road, after Kremasti and Paradissi , one should go up left and reach the lush greenery of the famous Petaloudes (Butterflies) valley (25 km), unique in the whole of Greece. Millions of butterflies gather here in the summer. The slightest sound drives them in flocks from among the trees and shrubs - a rare sight. Returning to the coast road we reach the side - road leading to ancient Camiros , third in importance commercial center of antiquity (34 km.). Archaeologists discovered this city, forgotten for centuries, in 1928. Ruins of this city - unique in having neither a castle nor an acropolis - are not commensurate with its past glory. We discern parts of houses and buildings, the Agora, with its Doric stoa (3rd century), a Hellenistic temenos with Doric temple, ruins of an aqueduct and remnants of the peripheral temple of Kamiriad Athena. Beside the foundations of that temple stands the Panagia monastery, near to a proto - Christian catacomb. The west road continues for a while along the coast, reaches the village Kamiros-scala (51 km.), then turns inland. From this village, with picturesque windmills and a panoramic view to the opposite islets, one can reach Chalki by caique. The traveler will be pleasantly suprised by the amphitheatric Kritinia village (55 km.), with a nearby impressive medieval castle. The road winds south trough the forest to Siana (69 km.), famous for its aromatic pine-sage honey and souma, full of old stone houses and a church with heavily restored eighteenth-century frescoes. At a distance of 4kms lies Monolithos, built on the pine - covered slopes of Mt. Ataviros. A nearby medieval castle, built on a steep cliff, imposes its presence. To the south one crosses endless green fields to reach Apollakia(84 km.), famous for its marriage feasts, and finally from the opposite side - Kattavia (102 km.).
Archeological sites in Rhodes
The island of Rhodes like almost every part of Greece, has many important archeological sites, evidence of a history of over three thousand years. Every year excavations bring to the light new founding. It is common in Greece for a church or an important building to be situated over the relics of an ancient temple, or for medieval fortification to use ancient castles and walls. Because of the continuity of Rhodes' history and the re-use of buildings and materials much of the historical-artistic heritage is assimilated also into the structure of simple constructions. In this sense, Rhodes is an open museum, where traces of the past eras can be found even on a humble village house.
Perhaps the most important archeological site is Kamiros on the southwest part of the island.
Acropolis of Lindos just over the village, is accessible only on foot. The Doric Temple of Athina is found inside the medieval Castle creating an interesting blend of two cultures. The construction of the Acropolis is dated at 1100 B.C.
No more than a kilometer from the center of the city, on the beautiful hill of Ayios Stefanos (Monte Smith), lie the sparse remains of the Hellenistic Era of Rhodes. The site contains a restored theater, a stadium and the remains of the temple of Apollo.
On the top of the Filerimos' hill, are the few remains of the ancient Ialyssos together with a Byzantine castle and monastery